Cubes of Heaven

  • Mark Robinson
  • Food
  • Aug 21, 2018

// Mark Robinson

People who love red-bean cakes often say Japanese sweets are healthy, but the truth of course is, they’re loaded with sugar. That’s what helps preserve them, says Mari Masuda, the madame of Tokutarou sweets bakery. She also lets you know, without a trace of false modesty, that she is aged 74. You would never have thought it. You can’t help thinking … she must be both very sweet and healthy! And why wouldn’t you be proud?

She apologises for her English, although of course there is no need to, since you are in her world. When you ask what’s special about the enigmatic cube-shaped sweet behind the glass, she gives a lesson in how they are made: shaped from beans that are sugar-simmered in their skins, unlike most of the other fillings for which the beans are peeled. Then coated with an envelope of flour, water and salt, and baked on a tray of copper, not iron, which heats unevenly.

// Mark Robinson

They are called kintsuba. Tokutarou’s kintsuba are famous for not being too sweet. That’s why Madame Masuda suggests you eat them within a couple of days. The sweet itself is like a primitive, modernistic, asymmetrical, dumpling-size block. It seems to hover in outer space, its wonky edges and airy translucent skin stretched tight over its purple insides. Bite through the slight resistance of the covering, and the texture is warm, smooth, grainy and wholesome. They cost mere pennies, less than 150-yen for one.

The shop in Asakusa 3-chome has been running for a century and a half, and Madame’s grandson, aged nine, is on track to be the fifth generation. It is also their home, recently rebuilt in a contemporary-traditional style. You would have walked straight past if you hadn’t got talking to the master, having a smoke break outside his kitchen.

Customers come in and chat loudly. You can eat by the window, where there is a welcoming bench and water cooler, and Mme Masuda offers you some alcohol hand wipes. The atmosphere is old-world, a little formal and elegant, but with a sense of something spontaneous, fun. It feels a lot like Edo might have been.

Mark Robinson is the author of Izakaya; The Japanese Pub Cookbook

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